北戴河.山海关 --景玉川
<p style="margin-left:0;text-indent:38px"><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">七月里，跟旅游团去了一趟北戴河、山海关，这是我心仪已久的地方。虽此次行程旅行社安排欠妥，作息时间极紧，一路上疲惫不堪</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">……</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">但总算遂了多年的心愿。</span></p><p style="text-indent:37px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">北戴河一带，清代曾是皇家的风水禁地，从顺治时起，被</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">封禁</span>270</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">多</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">年</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">，到光绪时始解封</span><span style="font-family: 黑体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 20px">，</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">被</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">辟为避暑区</span></span><span style="font-family: 黑体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 20px">，</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">成为</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">夏日</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">休假胜地。后又</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">属</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">政治敏感区，不少重要会议在此召开，让人感到很有几分神秘。吸引我的则是这里厚重的历史：</span></p><p style="text-indent:35px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><a href="https://baike.so.com/doc/2177359-2303996.html"><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px">秦始皇</span></a><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">东巡</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“碣石”，驻跸于此</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">，他命人</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">刻《碣石门辞》</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">，并</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">派</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">卢生</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">入海求仙</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">；公元</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(47, 47, 47);font-size: 19px">207年，</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">曹操</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(47, 47, 47);font-size: 19px">东征乌桓胜利班师，大军过碣石山</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">，他写下了著名的《观沧海》；毛泽东</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(47, 47, 47);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">《浪淘沙</span><span style="font-family:宋体">.北戴河》云：“往事越千年，</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px">魏武挥鞭</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(47, 47, 47);font-size: 19px">，</span><span style="font-family: 微软雅黑;font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">东临</span></span><a href="http://www.so.com/s?q=%E7%A2%A3%E7%9F%B3&ie=utf-8&src=internal_wenda_recommend_textn"><span style="font-family: 微软雅黑;font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">碣石</span></span></a><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">有遗篇</span><span style="font-family:宋体">”</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">……</span><span style=";font-family:Calibri;font-size:14px"> </span><a href="https://baike.so.com/doc/2177359-2303996.html"><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px">秦皇</span></a><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px">、</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">曹操、</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">毛泽东都</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">属一代政治豪雄，他们与</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"> <span style="font-family:宋体">“碣石”</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">有缘，让人不禁浮想联翩。</span></p><p style="text-indent:37px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">北戴河之称，缘为境内一条小河名</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">戴河</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 14px">，</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">全长</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">不过</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">35公里，</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">南向</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">流</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">入渤海，戴河</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">在</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">北戴河区</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">长</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">13公里，流域面积32平方公里。</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">此</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">河</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">虽小，但由于它地理位置好，又有名人留迹，所以名声远扬。</span></p><p style="text-indent:37px"><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px;background: rgb(255, 255, 255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">很遗憾，我们这次未能领略</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;font-size: 19px;background: rgb(255, 255, 255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">北戴河</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px;background: rgb(255, 255, 255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">别墅区的风貌，只是在</span></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">渤海</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">边的</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px;background: rgb(255, 255, 255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">鸽子窝</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">公园</span><span style="font-family:宋体">”游览。</span></span><a href="https://baike.so.com/doc/3176872-3347940.html"><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">海</span></span></a><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">边</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">悬</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">崖</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">上建有一座</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">鹰角亭</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">”，亭不大，</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">传说</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">毛泽东那首《</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(47,47,47);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">浪淘沙》，</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">就是他登</span></span><a href="https://baike.so.com/doc/3176872-3347940.html"><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">临</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">此</span></span></a><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">亭</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">时所写。</span></span></p><p style="text-indent:37px"><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">我们也登上了</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">鹰角亭</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">，凭栏而立，眺望渤海，海阔天高，心襟大开，但却生不出那吞吐天下的庙堂之气。海边水中有一堵类似石块砌成的高墙，如一截断壁残垣。人说这是</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><a href="http://www.so.com/s?q=%E7%A2%A3%E7%9F%B3&ie=utf-8&src=internal_wenda_recommend_textn"><span style=";font-family:微软雅黑;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">碣石</span></span></a><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">”，但专家们考证</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(47,47,47);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">碣石早在汉末已沉入大海，</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">曹操亲临的</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><a href="http://www.so.com/s?q=%E7%A2%A3%E7%9F%B3&ie=utf-8&src=internal_wenda_recommend_textn"><span style=";font-family:微软雅黑;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">碣石</span></span></a><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">”</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">是离此不远的</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(47,47,47);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">碣石山。</span></span></p><p style="margin-left:9px;text-indent:27px"><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(47,47,47);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">毛泽东的</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">《</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(47,47,47);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">浪淘沙</span><span style="font-family:宋体">.北戴河》气势宏大，</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">曹操的</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">《观沧海》也充满浩然之气：</span></p><p style="margin-left:9px;text-indent:27px"><span style=";font-family:仿宋;font-size:19px">“</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">东</span></span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">临</span></span><a href="http://www.so.com/s?q=%E7%A2%A3%E7%9F%B3&ie=utf-8&src=internal_wenda_recommend_textn"><span style=";font-family:仿宋;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">碣石</span></span></a><span style=";font-family:仿宋;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">，以</span></span><a href="http://www.so.com/s?q=%E8%A7%82%E6%B2%A7%E6%B5%B7&ie=utf-8&src=internal_wenda_recommend_textn"><span style=";font-family:仿宋;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">观沧海</span></span></a><span style=";font-family:仿宋;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">。</span> <span style="font-family:仿宋">水何澹澹，</span></span><a href="http://www.so.com/s?q=%E5%B1%B1%E5%B2%9B&ie=utf-8&src=internal_wenda_recommend_textn"><span style=";font-family:仿宋;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">山岛</span></span></a><span style=";font-family:仿宋;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">竦峙。</span> <span style="font-family:仿宋">树木丛生，百草丰茂。</span> <span style="font-family:仿宋">秋风萧瑟，洪波涌起。</span> <span style="font-family:仿宋">日月之行，若出其中；</span> <span style="font-family:仿宋">星汉灿烂</span></span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">，若出其里。</span> <span style="font-family:仿宋">幸甚至哉，歌以咏志</span></span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">”</span></span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">。</span></span></p><p style="text-indent:37px;line-height:37px"><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">我</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">站在海边，望着那堵如断壁的高墙，</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">它</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">虽不是</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><a href="http://www.so.com/s?q=%E7%A2%A3%E7%9F%B3&ie=utf-8&src=internal_wenda_recommend_textn"><span style=";font-family:微软雅黑;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">碣石</span></span></a><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">”，但能在海风海浪中屹立千万年，仍</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">足以令人震撼。</span></p><p style="text-indent:37px;line-height:37px"><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(47,47,47);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">“</span></span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">萧瑟秋风今又是，换了人间</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">”</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;font-size:19px"> <span style="font-family:仿宋">。（</span></span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(47,47,47);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">毛泽东</span></span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;font-size:19px">《</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(47,47,47);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:仿宋">浪淘沙》</span></span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;font-size:19px">）</span></p><p style="text-indent:37px;line-height:37px"><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">上世纪八十年代以前，</span><span style="font-family: Arial;font-size: 19px;background: rgb(255, 255, 255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">北戴河</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">不是一般人随便可去的地方，这次我们有幸来此，是因为</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">换了人间</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">”，我们</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">才可以欣赏</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><span style=";font-family:Arial;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">大雨落幽燕，白浪滔天，</span></span><span style=";font-family:微软雅黑;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">秦皇岛</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:宋体">外打鱼船，一片汪洋都要不见</span><span style="font-family:宋体">”的壮阔景象。</span></span></p><p style="text-indent:38px;text-align:center;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 14px"> </span></p><p style="text-indent:38px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">山海关在</span><span style="font-family: Arial;font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">北戴河</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px">之北，护卫着这片昔日的皇家禁地。</span></p><p style="text-indent:38px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">山海关和</span><span style="font-family: Arial;font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">北戴河</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px">今天都是属秦皇岛市的两个行政区。由于从</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">辽代</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">到</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">明</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">、清，</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">戴河</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">都</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">称渝水，</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">故山海关也曾称榆关、渝关，后来才改今名</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px">。这一带长城北倚</span><a href="https://baike.so.com/doc/3522927-3705680.html"><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px">燕山</span></a><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px">，南连</span><a href="https://baike.so.com/doc/5409823-5647861.html"><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px">渤海</span></a><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px">，山海关关名即由此而来。</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">明代名将</span><span style="font-family: 微软雅黑;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">戚继光</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">曾筑关守城，其</span><span style="font-family: 微软雅黑;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">《出榆关》</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">诗云：</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><span style="font-family: 微软雅黑;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">夜出榆关外</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">，</span><span style="font-family: 微软雅黑;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">朝看朔漠空</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">”。清代著名词人纳兰性德词风</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">清丽</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">凄迷</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">，即使是写军旅塞外边陲，其词也</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">苍凉哀</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">婉</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">，少</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">雄豪之气。但他那首七律《山海关》，却气势磅礴，一派铿锵大气。中间四句云：</span></p><p style="margin-left:99px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">“</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">山界万重横翠黛，海当三面涌银涛。</span></p><p style="margin-left:99px;text-indent:9px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">哀笳带月传声切，早雁迎秋度影高</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">”</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">。</span></p><p style="text-indent:37px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">山海关是万里</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">长城中唯一集山、海、关、城于一体的海、陆军事防御体系中的雄关险隘。</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><span style=";font-family:微软雅黑;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">两京锁钥无双地，万里长城第一关</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">”。</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">想象中的山海关应如名家诗词中赞美的那样</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">高大、雄伟。可惜我们被安排在夜间入关，进关城后虽然也登城眺望，但夜色中的前方漆黑一片，让人无法领略这北国</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">雄关控扼要冲的雄奇险峻。唯有在进关门时，城上</span><span style=";font-family:微软雅黑;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">气势</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">雄壮的</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">关楼上，悬挂着写有几个遒</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 20px;background: rgb(251, 251, 251)"><span style="font-family:宋体">劲</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">大字的匾额：</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“天下第一关”，让人不禁为之一振。</span></span></p><p style="text-indent:37px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">进入关城，第一感觉此城不大，街也不宽，但屋舍有序，整洁干静。街道一律花岗石铺路，两旁店铺古香古色，显然是经过修整。夜间的关城灯火辉煌，游人熙来攘往，一片繁华景象。走在其间，感觉似乎进入了《清明上河》中的一处街巷。历史上的承平岁月，小城应和今晚一样喧闹繁荣，歌舞升平。有介绍说，太平时期山海关城驻军仅有</span><span style="font-family:宋体">1400人左右，但像这样和平的日子，历史上并不多见，多的是</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:20px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">兵气与剑气</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">。地处边关要</span><span style=";font-family:微软雅黑;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:20px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">塞</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:20px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">的山海关，是</span></span><span style=";font-family:微软雅黑;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">通往</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:20px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">东北</span></span><span style=";font-family:微软雅黑;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">的要冲</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">。</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">匈奴草黄马正肥，</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">金山西见烟尘飞</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">。</span><span style="font-family:宋体">”</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">一旦异族陈兵关外，这里便战云笼罩，</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">气氛骤然紧张</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:20px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">。</span></span></p><p style="text-indent:40px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:20px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">第二天上午，我们到了山海关东南的</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">老龙头</span><span style="font-family:宋体">”</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:14px"><span style="font-family:宋体">。</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">老龙头</span><span style="font-family:宋体">”西</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">距山海关不过</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">4</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">公里，是长城东部起点。</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">东西走向的长城绵延</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">万里，</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">横跨中原北部疆域</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">，在</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">崇山峻岭间</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">它</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">蜿蜒如龙，于东部尽头入渤海</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 14px">，</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">像是长城之</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“首”，</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">故</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">称</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“老龙头”。这一段长城沿途有</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">海神庙、靖卤台、南海口、澄海楼</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">等建筑，以</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">澄海楼为</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">最高。登上楼头纵目，东向但见海天无际，西北则山川逶迤，浩然苍莽。临楼而立，海风拂面，顿感一股浩然之气在胸中奔涌、升腾。</span></p><p style="text-indent:37px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px">明初，</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">开国大将徐达奉命整修这一带长城与关隘，历经洪武、成化、嘉靖</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">……</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">数朝，前后二百余年，明王朝耗费大量人力与财力，终于建成了这万里长城一线连的山海关长城。</span></p><p style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;text-indent:37px;line-height:36px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">山海关是长城严密防御系统中的一座雄关，它坚固、高大、巍峨。</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">在冷兵器时代，</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">这座连</span><span style=";font-family:微软雅黑;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">通</span></span><span style=";font-family:微软雅黑;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:20px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">塞</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:20px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">外</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">的雄关，捍卫着大明王朝的安全，阻挡了</span></span><span style=";font-family:微软雅黑;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:20px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">塞</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:20px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">北游牧民族的入侵与他们入侵的梦想</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">。</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">白羽如霜出塞寒，胡烽不断接长安。城头一片西山月，多少征人马上看</span><span style="font-family:宋体">”</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">。明代诗人</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">李攀龙这首送友人出塞的绝句，展示了山海关位置和它在历史上举足轻重的份量。</span></p><p style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;text-indent:37px;line-height:36px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">山海关一度与汉民族的命运紧密相联，明末如果没有吴三桂开关迎敌，中国历史应当会重写。</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">明末清初著名</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">思想家</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">、</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">史地学家</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">顾炎武，对</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">吴三桂</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">的献关降清痛心疾首，他</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">感事伤时</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">，曾写下长诗《</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">山海关</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">》，诗云：</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">紫塞为周垣，苍山为锁钥</span><span style="font-family:宋体">”。“</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(47, 47, 47);font-size: 19px">启关元帅降，歃血名王諾</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">”。“</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">海燕春乳楼，胡鹰晓飞泊。</span></span><span style="font-family: 微软雅黑;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">七庙竟为灰，六州难铸错</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">”。</span></p><p style="text-indent:37px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">清兵入山海关，为东北女真人入主中原敞开了大门。入关后的清兵与</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">吴三桂部队联合大败李自成农民军，从此</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">关内关外相通，都归属满清。但康熙二十一年（</span><span style="font-family:宋体">1682年）早春，28岁的皇帝侍卫</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">纳兰性德</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">（</span>1655—1685年）</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px">，</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">随康熙赴奉天祭祖过山海关，写下了他一生最有名的</span><span style="font-family: Arial;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">词《长相思》：</span></span></p><p style="text-indent:28px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">“山一</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">程</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">，水一程，身向</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">榆关那畔</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">行，夜深千</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">帐</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">灯。</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px"> </span></p><p style="text-indent:28px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px"> </span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">风一</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">更，雪一更，</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">聒</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">碎乡心梦不成，故园无</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px"><span style="font-family:仿宋">此声</span><span style="font-family:仿宋">”</span></span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">。</span></p><p style="text-indent:37px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px">这一次康熙北上</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">祭祖，是在他头年削平了</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“三藩之乱”、开启“康、乾盛世”之时。按理，此时已经属于大清后方的山海关内外，应是一片安宁的太平气象。但纳兰性德这首词，给人的印象山海关一带，依然是戒备森严，充满不测：“</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">身向</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">榆关那畔</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">行，夜深千</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">帐</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">灯</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">”。</span></p><p style="text-indent:37px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family: 宋体;font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">晚清时，魏源在《山海关抒慨》中感慨：</span><span style="font-family:宋体">“铜墙终可破，铁壁赖民坚”。纵使没有</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">吴三桂引清兵入关，山海关恐怕也早晚难保，因为明王朝已经失去了民心。</span></p><p style="text-indent:37px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">冷兵器时代的雄关险隘既是军事保障，也是百姓心理的一种依靠与安慰。到了近、现代，雄关关隘的军事功能开始渐渐缩小，山海关尽管雄伟如故，但已难抵挡现代战争的炮火。清光绪二十六年</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">(1900</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">年</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">)</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px"><span style="font-family:宋体">八国联军入侵，攻取了山海关；</span><span style="font-family:宋体">1922年与1924年，</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">直、奉军阀在山海关内外两次大战；</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">1933</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">年，日寇曾占领山海关</span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">……</span></p><p style="text-indent:37px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">到了今天，山海关军事功能虽已不再，但作为昔日的雄关</span><span style=";font-family:微软雅黑;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">要塞</span></span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">，它的大</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">名</span><span style=";font-family:宋体;color:rgb(44,44,44);font-size:19px;background:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style="font-family:宋体">连同它悲壮丰厚的历史，已</span></span><span style="font-family: 宋体;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-size: 19px">化作作宝贵的历史文化与旅游资源。它和北戴河一起，成了著名的旅游胜地，每日里游人如织，络绎不绝，四面八方而来游人，在此登长城，临雄关，纵览山河，缅怀故迹，重温历史。</span><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">(2766字)</span></p><p style="text-indent:308px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px">2023.10.9 </span></p><p style="text-indent:308px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style=";font-family:仿宋;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:19px"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 24px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center;"><span style="text-indent: 189px; font-family: 黑体; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); letter-spacing: 1px;">海边</span><span style="text-indent: 189px; font-family: 黑体; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">“</span><a href="http://www.so.com/s?q=%E7%A2%A3%E7%9F%B3&ie=utf-8&src=internal_wenda_recommend_textn" style="text-indent: 189px;"><span style="font-family: 黑体;">碣石</span></a><span style="text-indent: 189px; font-family: 黑体;">”</span></p><p style="line-height: 24px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center;"><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px"> </span></p><p style="line-height: 24px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center;"><br/></p><p style="line-height: 24px;background: rgb(255, 255, 255)"><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px"><br/></span></p><p style="line-height: 24px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center;"><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px"></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: 黑体;font-size: 16px;background: rgb(255, 255, 255)"> </span><span style="font-family: 黑体;font-size: 16px;background: rgb(255, 255, 255)"><span style="font-family:黑体">北戴河</span></span><span style=";font-family:黑体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:16px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:黑体">鸽子窝</span></span><span style=";font-family:黑体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:16px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:黑体">公园</span><span style="font-family:黑体">“</span></span><span style=";font-family:黑体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:16px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:黑体">鹰角亭</span></span><span style=";font-family:黑体;color:rgb(51,51,51);font-size:16px;background:rgb(255,255,255)"><span style="font-family:黑体">”</span></span></p><p style="line-height: 24px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center;"><span style=";font-family:宋体;font-size:19px"></span><br/></p><p style="line-height: 24px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: center;"></p><p><br/></p><link rel="stylesheet" href="//www.shanglushan.com/source/plugin/wcn_editor/public/wcn_editor_fit.css?v134_yN0" id="wcn_editor_css"/> 照片漂亮。 庐山的风景 谢谢分享，已阅读 学习了 文笔不错 学习了 长知识了 挺不错的
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