岁时记 | 地菜汤，菜粑香，庐山人的三月三
<p style="margin-bottom: 0em;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;color: rgb(34, 34, 34);letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br/></p><p></p><section style="margin-bottom: 0px;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></section><p></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">又是一年三月三。<span style="font-family: Microsoft Yahei, sans-serif, Arial, Verdana;text-align: start;text-indent: 43px;">当我们还处在农耕文明时，对岁时的敏锐感悟是赖以生存的必要技能。</span>早在先秦两汉时期，先人便在三月第一个逢巳的日子来到水边，香草沐浴、清洗宿垢，期望消灾祛邪，叫“<strong>祓禊</strong>”</span><span style="font-size: 12px;color: rgb(178, 178, 178);">（fú xì）</span><span style="font-size: 14px;">，并将这天称为<strong>上巳节</strong>。及至魏晋时期，上巳节固定在每年的三月初三。</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">三月三，这一天好象格外重要。</span><span style="font-size: 14px;">上至神仙下至怀春男女都是要紧的日子，不仅是王母娘娘、轩辕黄帝的生日，也是凡夫俗子是踏青节。</span><span style="font-size: 14px;">还有数不完的节，百里不同俗，都是或过远或过雅罢了，即使忽略，也不是憾事。</span><strong style="font-size: 14px;">那些薪薪相传至今的年节时令，归到底还是有得吃，所以纪念。</strong><strong style="font-size: 14px;"></strong></p><p style="white-space: normal;text-align: center;"><img class="rich_pages wxw-img" data-galleryid="" data-ratio="0.596875" data-s="300,640" src="https://www.shanglushan.com/plugin.php?id=wcn_editor:wx_img&url=https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_jpg/zqcwY6QlpLHgz788SgCHvr9lekerEtc9ovibpuNauicFD7M8LIZECh2aicAdG6QzzZbNvV0q4ribzudvr7icKufrAFg/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="640"/></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;overflow-wrap: break-word;border-width: 0px;border-style: initial;border-color: initial;box-sizing: border-box;font-family: Microsoft Yahei, sans-serif, Arial, Verdana;text-align: start;text-indent: 43px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);color: rgb(123, 12, 0);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">「</span><strong style="overflow-wrap: break-word;border-width: 0px;border-style: initial;border-color: initial;box-sizing: border-box;font-family: inherit;font-size: inherit;"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"></span>三月三日，士民并出江渚池沼间，为流杯曲水之饮。<strong style="font-size: 14px;white-space: normal;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;letter-spacing: 0.544px;color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">」</span></strong></strong></span><span style="font-size: 12px;color: rgb(178, 178, 178);">（《荆楚岁时记》十七）</span><span style="font-size: 14px;">荆楚之地的庐</span><span style="font-size: 14px;">山，暮春时正是风和日丽、赏花踏青的好日子。三月三日这一天，人们喜欢呼朋唤友，汇聚在景色优美的清流萦绕之处，大家散坐水旁，以酒杯盛酒，放在曲折的溪流中，酒杯流到谁的面前，谁就饮酒，有时还要吟诗赋对。上巳日便成了洗濯歌舞、曲水流觞，全民娱乐的节日。后来，还增加了<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">「</span><strong>曲水浮卵</strong><strong style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;font-size: 14px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">」</span></strong>、<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">「</span><strong>曲水浮枣</strong><strong style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;font-size: 14px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">」</span></strong>的游戏，就是将鸡蛋或红枣放在水中，漂浮到谁的面前，就由谁取食，以此为乐，鸡蛋与枣子，妥妥的迎合了人们对早生贵子的期盼。再后来，曲水浮卵演变成<strong>地菜煮鸡蛋</strong>，将人们的生育期盼转为对健康的期待。</span></p><p><strong style="font-size: 14px;">三月三，地菜煮鸡蛋。</strong><br/></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">庐山人称荠菜为地菜，三月三时，路边田埂上，地菜开满了星星点点的小白花，细细的绿叶子，打着小三角的绿荚，精致极了。这一天的地菜包饺子已稍嫌过气，老了些。立春尚未打花才发的地菜，剁碎做馅清香满室。但<strong>三月三的地菜，做药用在老一辈口里那可是当得灵丹</strong>。</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">三月初三这一天，庐山人都会去野外新采些地菜，洗净，捆扎成一小束，放入鸡蛋、红枣、配两三片生姜，煎上一大锅水，全家都吃上一碗。食之既可交发财运</span><span style="font-size: 12px;color: rgb(178, 178, 178);">（荠菜谐音聚财）</span><span style="font-size: 14px;">，又可去风湿、清火，防治头痛，腰腿痛，预防春瘟，<strong>久而久之便形成当地民间特有的食疗习俗。</strong></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">那天厨房里一屋清香。一人一碗，小孩子碗里的鸡蛋总要多一两个，热气腾腾的吃着，<strong>一年年，也就成了贴身的节日，少不了。</strong></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><img class="rich_pages wxw-img" data-cropselx1="0" data-cropselx2="578" data-cropsely1="0" data-cropsely2="385" data-galleryid="" data-ratio="0.7341772151898734" data-s="300,640" src="https://www.shanglushan.com/plugin.php?id=wcn_editor:wx_img&url=https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_jpg/zqcwY6QlpLGCyWgjGaBXXI8LfuI4cjh4CLb9ZdDLg5W0Sm0furGKy2xVMZrzvuVX2QicCU2dniaxMfGrIahwBWYg/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="948" style="width: 578px;height: 424px;"/></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">传说里，早晨扯的地菜，可治头痛。中午扯的地菜，可理肠胃。傍晚扯的地菜，可治风湿腿痛。我起先老记不清，总混淆。后来，总结了下，早到晚，是从头治到脚，一一对应，按顺序而来的。这回就记得一清二楚了。老人们总是笃信得很，若头痛，大清早就踩着露水去了。若腿痛，硬要落黑，也不肯就着亮去扯。弄错时辰，那可不得了。在她们眼里，<strong>地菜扯的时辰与身体部位是互为暗扣的，不容任何怀疑</strong>。</span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">据老一辈说，如果想要真正达到祛风败毒的食疗效果，<strong>用新鲜地菜煮青壳鸭蛋，其实才是最好的</strong>。庐山人还会把老的地菜花放入在床铺处和衣服中，可以防蚂蚁和除虫害。</span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><img class="rich_pages wxw-img" data-galleryid="" data-ratio="0.6657407407407407" data-s="300,640" src="https://www.shanglushan.com/plugin.php?id=wcn_editor:wx_img&url=https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_jpg/zqcwY6QlpLG5VqqDHEibTpVBIKZeNhcPmuONUMA6dibzTbHCO4NHMJZ3mt1DXzBpWIpyu3qIR2icwU5CzACqWh2mw/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="1080" style=""/></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 14px;font-family: Microsoft Yahei, sans-serif, Arial, Verdana;text-align: start;text-indent: 43px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">魏晋以后，</span><span style="font-size: 14px;">人们在踏春之时，看见了新绿鲜嫩的味道，舌头也不由躁动起来。<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">「</span></span><span style="font-size: 14px;"><strong style="color: rgb(123, 12, 0);font-family: inherit;font-size: inherit;text-align: start;text-indent: 43px;overflow-wrap: break-word;border-width: 0px;border-style: initial;border-color: initial;box-sizing: border-box;">是日（三月三），取鼠麴汁蜜和粉，谓之龙舌</strong></span><span style="font-size: 14px;color: rgb(123, 12, 0);"><strong style="font-family: inherit;font-size: inherit;text-align: start;text-indent: 43px;overflow-wrap: break-word;border-width: 0px;border-style: initial;border-color: initial;box-sizing: border-box;"><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 13px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">䉽，<span style="font-size: 14px;">以厌时气。<strong style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;font-size: 14px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">」</span></strong></span></span></strong></span><span style="font-size: 12px;color: rgb(178, 178, 178);">（《荆楚岁时记》十八）</span><span style="font-size: 14px;">一场春雨绿芜发，一年春事粲如华。在山间田野，被冰封了一冬的食材，攒足了天地灵气，约定好了似的逐渐苏醒。先春而萌发是开着白花的荠菜、蒲公英，一身小清新开着黄花的米萩（鼠麴草），爆满枝头香气凛冽的香椿芽，还有山间的春笋，湖洲上的藜蒿，让我们领略到淡淡的清香。</span></p><p><strong><span style="font-size: 14px;">三月三，菜粑香。</span></strong><br/></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">在庐山的乡下，流行着一年三粑的习俗，那就是过年做豆渣粑，三月三做菜粑（芥菜、米萩等），七月半做南瓜粑。现在过年和七月半做粑的不多了，但三月三这天哪怕再忙都家家必做菜粑，毕竟，<strong>吃了三月初三的粑，一年身体健康，不生病</strong>，凡事吉祥才是最重要的。</span></p><p style="white-space: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14px;">庐山菜粑的原料主要是芥菜和米萩。芥菜是一种很有个性的菜，你若直接把芥菜叶炒成菜，味道极差，别说小孩，大人也不愿吃。但<strong>与籼米粉揉成团蒸熟，其味道有特殊的清香。</strong>若用开水脱水晒干，做成盐菜，更是最高级的干盐菜。芥菜的嫩茎非常鲜美，就是庐山的菜头，叫芥笋，比青菜好吃多了。芥菜顶上长有花蕾未开花的部分，可加工成味道独特的冲菜。</span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><img class="rich_pages wxw-img js_insertlocalimg" data-ratio="0.6676954732510288" data-s="300,640" src="https://www.shanglushan.com/plugin.php?id=wcn_editor:wx_img&url=https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_jpg/zqcwY6QlpLGCyWgjGaBXXI8LfuI4cjh4Ese7icPogfEQRia6uAUib9RfjJkt6bukTgMjvCxXyujB5RlE2wGq7Gibvg/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="972" style=""/></p><p style="white-space: normal;"><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;font-size: 14px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;">米<span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;">萩</span>学名是鼠麴草，<span style="letter-spacing: 0.544px;">春季野菜中，唯有它是最好辨认的。在江南农村，不到农历二月就开始采摘<span style="letter-spacing: 0.544px;">米萩</span>，那时<span style="letter-spacing: 0.544px;">米萩</span>还未抽芯开花，或顶多花苞尖上泛着一点黄。若等到清明，除了一些阴冷地带，大部分地方的<span style="letter-spacing: 0.544px;">米萩</span>都开谢了，茎叶就老了。<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei, WenQuanYi Micro Hei, sans-serif;text-align: start;text-indent: 28px;"><span style="font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;">米萩</span>可作镇咳、祛痰、治气喘和支气管炎以及非传染性溃疡、创伤之寻常用药，内服还有降血压疗效。<strong><span style="text-indent: 28px;">古时每逢农历三月三日上巳节，汉族人采集<span style="font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;">米萩</span>，和上米粉做成祭品，用来祭祀祖先</span></strong><span style="text-indent: 28px;">。</span></span></span></span></p><p style="white-space: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14px;">快到三月三的时候，四邻八舍家家户户都开始忙碌起来。先去田地里采摘来的芥菜、</span><span style="font-size: 14px;color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">米</span><span style="font-size: 14px;color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;">萩</span><span style="font-size: 14px;">，再洗菜、切菜、磨米等等，那几天，房前屋后甚至砖缝里都飘着浓浓的菜粑清香。菜粑做好后，不仅是要给自家人吃，更是要送给亲朋好友。那时节，不论是大道还是小路，挎着竹篮的女人们多了起来，不用说，那竹篮里装的都是满满一篮的菜粑。偶尔有路人饿了，会来上一句：<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">「</span>你个篮里的菜粑好香<strong style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;font-size: 14px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">」</span></strong>，那边听了，自然赶紧递上两三个，这实在不是什么了不得的事，</span><strong><span style="font-size: 14px;">若能听到一句赞扬，那一整天都会开心得很</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei, WenQuanYi Micro Hei, sans-serif;text-align: start;text-indent: 28px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-size: 14px;">。</span></strong></p><p style="white-space: normal;text-align: center;"><img class="rich_pages wxw-img" data-galleryid="" data-ratio="0.6648148148148149" data-s="300,640" src="https://www.shanglushan.com/plugin.php?id=wcn_editor:wx_img&url=https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_jpg/zqcwY6QlpLFBKJBTu5z6rdfC7k8NpibDAHfhtiaYhVxuITaiasJMQ5Axyl4XrIlhDia45rwmd1k1cib3HvgmlGgMObw/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="1080"/></p><p style="white-space: normal;"><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);color: rgb(62, 62, 62);font-family: 微软雅黑;font-size: 15px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-indent: 30px;">在小时候，一直不明白吃菜粑的习俗是从何而来？更不理解的是，<strong>那些大人们为何对这种我觉得丝毫谈不上美味的食物喜爱有加</strong>。直到前些年，搜集整理庐山史料，知道了与庐山有不尽渊源的禅宗<span style="letter-spacing: 0.544px;">四祖道信<span style="letter-spacing: 0.544px;">大师，在家乡黄梅<span style="letter-spacing: 0.544px;">教穷苦百姓通过春食芥菜，抵御瘟疫，挽救了一方百姓的生命的故事。也知道了，岳飞在庐山下驻军训练岳家军，岳母以野菜做粑当军粮充饥度过荒年，才有了后来岳家军精忠报国的故事。</span></span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">这时才明白，原来这小小的菜粑，在曾经恶劣的环境里，不只是<span style="color: rgb(62, 62, 62);font-family: 微软雅黑;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-indent: 30px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">防春瘟，养生健体，</span>治病救人的良方！又度了青黄不接季节之荒。原来<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">「</span><strong>三月三，吃菜粑</strong><strong style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;font-size: 14px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">」</span></strong>，不仅是对一种传统文化的传承，<span style="color: rgb(62, 62, 62);font-family: 微软雅黑;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-indent: 30px;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">寒食节里最应景的食物。</span>更是对庐山历史人物的纪念！突然就对这个浅绿色的，圆圆的米粑，有了不一般的好感。</span><span style="font-size: 14px;">暮春时节，最馋人的就是这圆滚滚的东西，</span><span style="font-size: 14px;">轻轻咬一口，将绵软与清香卷入舌头，慢慢沉入心坎。</span><strong style="font-size: 14px;">这是人与大自然一年一次的约定</strong><span style="font-size: 14px;">，若是咬不到这一口软软的芬芳，心里总像是会被一小块硬石头搁着。</span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><img class="rich_pages wxw-img" data-galleryid="" data-ratio="0.6647919010123734" data-s="300,640" src="https://www.shanglushan.com/plugin.php?id=wcn_editor:wx_img&url=https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_jpg/zqcwY6QlpLGCyWgjGaBXXI8LfuI4cjh4qiaJD5XMicIwdsZ4cH1unWvQa0mdTzAPliaHBpxH1WP6yLn51CYDJUOFQ/640?wx_fmt=jpeg" data-type="jpeg" data-w="889" style=""/></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;">再后来，在父辈和祖辈那里，更新了我的认知，其实地菜、米萩等野菜的身世来历往往与名人逸事无关，也与灵丹妙药也无关，与之绑定在一起的，是人们不折不扣的饥荒记忆。不只这些常见的野菜，在庐山，还有粑叶、豆叶菜、毛菜等特有的野菜。因为贫困，这些野菜也一直没有脱离过人们的餐桌，上世纪60-70年代，野菜还曾成为能够出口创汇的重要物资。</span><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;letter-spacing: 0.5px;">所谓吃野菜，其实就是吃各地最新鲜、最家常、最贴近本土的小菜。这在物流发达的今天会显得格外有趣，当菜市场蔬菜都趋同之后，<strong>吃本地野菜这一点小小的新意，顿时就显得稀有了。</strong></span><span style="font-size: 14px;"></span></p><p><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;letter-spacing: 0.5px;">庐山人的<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;">「</span><strong>三月三</strong><strong style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;font-family: system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;letter-spacing: 0.544px;visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family: 宋体;font-size: 12px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: 0.544px;text-align: left;widows: 1;visibility: visible;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;">」，</span></strong></span><span style="font-size: 14px;">依旧能吃到一碗热腾腾的地菜煮鸡蛋，也依旧能吃到满嘴清香的菜粑。看着竹篮子里一个个绿色的小胖子，整整齐齐地摆在一起，嘴里多了清香，心底就会多一些期待，因为在<strong>它们的肚子里，装满了这一整年最好的春光。</strong></span><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);color: rgb(34, 34, 34);font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light;font-size: 14px;letter-spacing: 0.5px;"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px;"></span></p><p></p><section style="margin-top: 1em;margin-bottom: 1.5em;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);font-variant-numeric: normal;font-variant-east-asian: normal;font-stretch: normal;font-size: 16px;line-height: 28.44px;font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;border-width: 0px;border-style: initial;border-color: initial;color: rgb(62, 62, 62);clear: both;widows: 1;"><section style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;border-color: rgb(196, 196, 106);text-align: center;color: rgb(255, 255, 255);font-family: inherit;font-size: 1em;text-decoration: inherit;"><section style="margin-right: auto;margin-left: auto;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;border-radius: 100%;width: 2em;height: 2em;background-color: rgb(196, 196, 106);"><section style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;line-height: 2;font-family: inherit;font-size: 1em;display: inline-block;"><section style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;">结<br style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;"/></section></section></section><section style="margin-top: -1em;margin-bottom: 1em;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;"><section style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;border-color: rgb(196, 196, 106);width: 234.49px;border-top-width: 1px;border-top-style: solid;float: left;"><br style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></section><section style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;border-color: rgb(196, 196, 106);width: 234.49px;border-top-width: 1px;border-top-style: solid;float: right;"><br style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></section></section></section></section><section style="margin-bottom: 0px;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;color: rgb(34, 34, 34);letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;text-align: center;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><br style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></section><section style="margin-bottom: 0px;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;color: rgb(34, 34, 34);letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;text-align: center;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;letter-spacing: 0.544px;color: rgb(147, 137, 83);"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;color: rgb(221, 217, 195);font-size: 12px;">时间</span></strong></section><section style="margin-bottom: 0px;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;text-align: center;color: rgb(62, 62, 62);overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;color: rgb(215, 171, 169);font-size: 12px;">2023年3月</span></section><section style="margin-bottom: 0px;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;text-align: center;color: rgb(62, 62, 62);overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;color: rgb(215, 171, 169);font-size: 12px;"><strong style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;color: rgb(214, 214, 214);">地点</span></strong></span></section><section style="margin-bottom: 0px;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;text-align: center;color: rgb(62, 62, 62);overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;color: rgb(215, 171, 169);font-size: 12px;">江西 庐山 归宗</span></section><section style="margin-bottom: 0px;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;text-align: center;color: rgb(62, 62, 62);overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><strong style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;color: rgb(214, 214, 214);font-size: 12px;">撰文</span></strong></section><section style="margin-bottom: 0px;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;text-align: center;color: rgb(62, 62, 62);overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;color: rgb(215, 171, 169);font-size: 12px;">袁志良</span></section><section style="margin-bottom: 0px;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;text-align: center;color: rgb(62, 62, 62);overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;color: rgb(215, 171, 169);"><strong style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;color: rgb(221, 217, 195);font-size: 12px;">编辑</span></strong></span></section><section style="margin-bottom: 0px;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;text-align: center;color: rgb(62, 62, 62);overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;color: rgb(215, 171, 169);font-size: 12px;">袁志良</span></section><section style="margin-bottom: 0px;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Helvetica Neue, PingFang SC, Hiragino Sans GB, Microsoft YaHei UI, Microsoft YaHei, Arial, sans-serif;text-align: center;color: rgb(62, 62, 62);overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;color: rgb(215, 171, 169);font-size: 12px;"><br style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box !important;overflow-wrap: break-word !important;"/></span></section><section style="margin-top: 0.5em;margin-bottom: 0em;outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;letter-spacing: 0.544px;white-space: normal;background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);font-variant-numeric: normal;font-variant-east-asian: normal;font-stretch: normal;font-size: 16px;line-height: 25.6px;font-family: 微软雅黑;color: rgb(89, 89, 89);widows: 1;"><section style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;text-align: center;border-top: 1px dotted rgb(102, 100, 100);"><span style="outline: 0px;max-width: 100%;box-sizing: border-box;overflow-wrap: break-word;color: rgb(102, 100, 100);font-size: 12px;white-space: pre-wrap;">文为醉石原创，欢迎分享，转载请注明</span></section></section><p></p><p style="display: none;"><mp-style-type data-value="3"></mp-style-type></p><p><br/></p><link rel="stylesheet" href="//www.shanglushan.com/source/plugin/wcn_editor/public/wcn_editor_fit.css?v134_by9" id="wcn_editor_css"/> 俺只知道吃菜粑 都好好吃。 地菜的不错/赞 文章挺生动 感觉挺好吃的 地菜煮鸡蛋，菜粑 不错啊 我家也有呢。 我家也有呢。
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